Ritzy Nuns and Walking the Walk

While visiting the areas of Jesus' main ministry in Galilee we were blessed to stay at the Convent of the Basilica on the Mt of the Beatitudes (Matthew 5:2 "Blessed are the poor in spirit: for theirs is the kingdom of heaven."). Convent might make you think of something from Sister Act, but these Franciscans Sisters are blessed with some pretty outstanding tithes because it felt like the Ritz!  Rose gardens, delicious food, breathtaking views and killer WiFi speed made this an amazing experience.
Our first order though, was to get off the beaten path and walk the path Jesus had walked before us.  For it is in the hills by the Sea of Galilee that Jesus found His apostles, taught the multitudes and fed thousands.  Thus, as we walked down the hills towards the refreshment of the water we contemplated the humanity of Christ.  Was He annoyed by the bugs?  Was He excited to relax and wash off in waterfalls by the seaside with His brothers?  Did He worry about tripping and spraining His ankle?  I like to believe it is precisely these very things that makes Jesus so compassionate.  He knows exactly what frustrates and excites us, because He experienced those in the Flesh.

Having refreshed our Spirits by following the Lord's path we refreshed our bodies by taking a dip in the waters of Galilee.  In JJ's words, "We have 11 new Sea of Galilee Polar Bear Club members!" Personally, I didn't think it was that cold, but as I am constantly reminded, it's not really about me!
After spiritual refreshment we needed spiritual nourishment and we were blessed to receive the Eucharist at a place the Apostles experienced a similar Eucharist.  The Primacy of Peter is a church built around the rock where Jesus prepared a meal for His Apostles after His resurrection (John 21:12 "None of the disciples dared ask him, “Who are you?” They knew it was the Lord.").  While the church itself is understated and overcrowded with tourists/pilgrims, the rocks by the water is where I felt the Spirit.  The Primacy is named so for the Catholics' recognition of Peter as the first Pope, for it was here that Peter's love for the Risen Lord is illustrated with such clarity.
To feel even closer to the apostles, who were fishermen, we went out onto the sea.  Here we heard the Gospel of the Lord and saw a view the disciples they saw many times - the beautiful golden and green hills of their homeland.  Then to add to that feeling we visited the fishing boat that was excavated from the sea dated to the 1st century.  

Then it was back to the convent to enjoy the peace and conversation with one another.  A focus of conversation was the understanding of Christ.  How do you understand Christ?  He knows your faults and is the ultimate example of understanding, so in that Light of Compassion, what would you want to admit to Him?








(Thanks to my reader who suggested I focus on being concise! I hope this was a better size chunk to swallow!)

Gallery Link

To view the pictures of the trip so far you can visit this link.
KodakGallery Album

Jesus and Family

Today was all about the family.  Beginning at the beginning we woke up early and went to the church set above the site of the birth of Christ.  As with many sites in the area, there are multiple "protectors" of the area.  For this site there is the Roman Catholics, the Greek Orthodox and the Armenian Christians.  The Roman Catholics have their own church attached to the original Crusader church which is where they hold the big Christmas service that is televised all over the world. I thought it would be bigger!  We were unable to go below and see the manger and the spot where Jesus was supposed to have been born because there were processions beginning shortly but the altars and fanfare above were quite spectacular.  Also connected with this place is the cavelike room where St Jerome translated the bible from Greek to Latin, which is the version that was spread throughout the world for 1000 years.  St Jerome's tomb is in a connecting cave where we had a moment of "meditation" in the midst of a very busy pilgrimage area.  Can you guess the word I'm going to use to describe the place?  Nice try, I was going to say powerful.  Next time you'll get it!

Then we prepared to travel up through Israel to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee.  In preparation we stopped at the Bethlehem Christian Coop where they have every possible souvenir you could need and complimentary coffee!  I got some great postcards and a Bethlehem t-shirt to support this challenged group.  The unemployment rate in Bethlehem is said to be around 40% and climbing and most young people leave their home town in there 20's for better opportunities so to try and support this group of Christians felt good, though I know that $19 is not going to change lives, it can't hurt.  Then we were off to Nazareth.

On the way into Nazareth we stopped at a place that neither my father nor our intellectual leader Fr Andrew had been before, Sepphoris (pronounced like Severus for you Harry Potter fans!), a place near Nazareth that was home to affluent Romans.  In Sepphoris, or Zippori in Hebrew, there were ancient ruins that are still amazingly intact and very well restored.  The mosaics on the floors of these palatial estates were unbelievable!  There was one floor that contained 1.5 million tiles and has a picture of a woman who is referred to as "The Mona Lisa of the Middle East."  (see picture)

As Najati lead us down interesting paths from one ruin to the next (and possibly paths Jesus and Joseph walked down, see picture), Fr Andrew lead us down some interesting mental paths.  He challenged us to think about our ideas of Joseph, Jesus' earthly father as well as Jesus Himself.  Imagine your wife tells you she is pregnant with the Son of God, better yet, imagine an angel tells you that you are about to be the father of the Son of God.  I think I'd probably tell a few folks.  Yet Joseph remains humble and accepts his duty like a true man and father.  Fr then suggested to us that our idea of what Jesus did for work may have a different translation, that instead of "carpenter" could be "craftsman" and what's more likely in an area without much lumber is that Jesus was a stoneworker, like his father.  So as we gazed out over the verdant plains of the valleys of Galilee and looked across to see the hills of Nazareth just a few miles away, it begins to illuminate a very real picture of the man Jesus.
Waking up in the caves that were home to the Nazarenes, Jesus and His father Joseph could have walked the four miles to Sipphoris where the affluent Romans were taking advantage of the local indigenous people who would work for very little wages to build their palatial estates.  While there are obvious social connections with today's world (think about the groups of day laborers you see at the local Home Depot), we focused mainly on the day to day relationship between father and son.
Walking for an hour or two to work, mentoring Jesus in his craft, teaching Him the value of service and hardwork, explaining the politics and social structure of their world and that Caesar is their earthly ruler and ultimately their earthly employer (e.g. "Give Caesar what is due Caesar.") these are the years where God truly was human.  During this time Jesus was just a boy learning what it meant to be a man.  He learned these things from a father that was fully present in His life and took his responsibility seriously.  Humble Joseph took on a new image for me at Sepphoris and made me once again thankful for both of my Fathers and their very intentional role in my life.

Always on the move, like JC, we continued to Nazareth to see the Church of the Annunciation and the place where Mary received the Spirit to become the Mother of Christ.  Giovanni Muzio's design of the Basillica of the Virgin Mary is simply breathtaking.  It was finished in 1969 but still feels modern.  Immediately upon entering the courtyard pilgrims are greeted by elaborate mosaics depicting the Virgin.  Each one represents a  different country so it was a great reminder of the limitless compassion and understanding of Christ and how He is the Savior of all peoples to see depictions of Mary as Japanese, Spanish, Ethiopian, Scottish and many others.  Along with these phenomenal presentations of the Holy Mother, the building itself is breathtaking.  Walking in the front door you are struck by the openness of it, yet you are aware of the level above you.

In the center of the first floor there is a depression with an altar and a gate that reveals a cave with another altar within.  It is said that this was Mary's home where she was visited by the Angel.  Powerful.  On the top level there is a more typical church with rows of pews and a magnificent altar at the front but there is an open space that allows one to see down into the first level.  And then you look up to an unbelievable ceiling (pictured).  As Mary was humbled by the Spirit I felt humbled by the majesty of this place.
After a time of meditation and reflection we once again were on the move as we traveled up to the Mt of the Beatitudes where we would stay at a convent.  See you when we get there!

From the Sea to the Desert Part II

After rejuvenating in the Dead Sea we tried our luck at the River Jordan.  Chances were that we wouldn't get to see it because they close it around 3pm and it was 3pm when we left the Dead Sea.  But as He would have it, the gatehouse was open and we proceeded to the Israeli/Jordanian border to John the Baptist's "office"!
As we walked towards the river we learned the recent history of the river access.  The Jordan is quite narrow at present.  Flowing from the Sea of Galilee down to the Dead Sea, in a country where water is as precious as gold, any water that ultimately ends up in the Dead Sea is considered wasted water, as it is no longer usable.  Thus the flow has been severely restricted.  As a result the water is calm and quite silty from the near constant stirring of the sediment from an unending stream of baptisms.

Yet, while it does not appear to be a powerful river but looks more like a Florida bayou, the place holds a weight and power that is palpable.  We happened to catch a lull in the traffic and so we had had an access point pretty much to ourselves.  The water is cool and refreshing on our feet and for some a dash on the head.  Fr. Andrew lead us in prayer and scripture.  Hearing the story of Jesus' baptism we were reminded that this is the place where the ministry that would change the world began.  Fr. dug into the words of the scripture and described how the heaven's were torn open as Jesus emerged anew from the Jordan and transitioned into the Man many will come to know as the Christ.  Transition became a theme of this place for us as Fr. explained.  Not only is this a place where Jesus' life transitioned into what would become His ministry but it's also the place where a millenia before Jesus the Israelites arrived at the banks of a raging torrent after wandering in the desert for 40 years as slaves.  Slaves on one side, in crossing through these baptismal waters they began new lives - lives of freedom.
On a personal level, the scripture of His baptism really spoke to me.  "And the Holy Spirit descended on him in bodily form like a dove. And a voice came from heaven: 'You are my Son, whom I love; with you I am well pleased.'” Luke 3:21-23  

Here I am, with my father, in the place of Jesus' baptism and the beginning of His ministry.  I am here because of my father for many different reasons; from obvious biological reasons to more inspired reasons, such as his desire to take me on this journey.  While he may be pleased in me, I am truly blessed to have such an amazing role model, mentor and friend that so many people look to for guidance.  And I am his son!  And because he is my father, I have always known that He is my Father.  There are many defining moments I've had with my namesake that I will always recall with fondness and clarity, but this experience is high on the list.
Moving on to slightly lighter topics (: :), we, like Jesus, immediately went from the Jordan to the desert.  As we arrived on the Mt of Temptation and were immediately seized by small Israeli children.  No, they were not freakishly strong and we did not do anything illegal we might be seized for, they were just really insistent salesmen.  Ironically, as we are a group of men, they really only had women's accessories to sell.  So as we made our way to the altar at the top of the Mt, one little guy in a Canadian tuxedo latched on to my arm and
began adorning me with bracelets.  Clearly I gave the chap some sheckels and when we began setting up the components of a Eucharist, he got the idea and moved back to the side.

The Eucharist on top of the mountain where Jesus spent 40 days being fulfilled only by the Spirit and being tempted to turn rock to bread was moving.  Interestingly there were a few distracting temptations for us as well.  It is a well travelled place and thus there is a lot of foot traffic.  Foot traffic equals the aforementioned salesmen and their, what I hope, parents, so there were tables with lots of merch set up.  Mighty winds also buffeted us and did it's darndest to carry off Fr. Eric's words before they could reach our ears.  Grace prevailed though and there were moments of calm so we could listen to the thoughts about Jesus finding His identity in the wild places.  Some of you may know, I am a fan of wild places and so this spoke to me.  The Body of Christ was broken for us and made it's way to our hands and mouths even though the gusts and gales that besought us.  To say that the day was a wild day would be an understatement.
We arrived back at St George's to rest and recuperate and get ready.  We still have over a week left!

From the Sea to the Desert

History can be so dern interesting sometimes! Not when I was in European history, but when you can see the history and touch the stones and imagine someone storming the gates, whoa, it can get pretty real.
This morning we left occupied Palestine to travel to Masada.  Today is also Israeli independence day.  And in the land of unending conflict, even the Independence day has two sides to the story.  Let me explain.
Masada is a mountaintop fortress which you can access by cable car or by a kilometer of switchbacks up the side of the mountain.  The fortress sits beside the Dead Sea, though the sea has receded extremely since the days of Herod the Great, the mastermind behind the fortress.  The fortress is an amazing feat of architecture that I won't nearly be able to do justice to but suffice it to say that is is impregnable but could also host a pretty fantastic party!  However, the crazier part is that the Romans came and, ummm, pregnated the fortress?

The Romans came down and built an enormous ramp of earth and stone up to one side of the mountaintop and ultimately broke down the gates with a battering ram and stormed the fortress.  (nearly up to where this photo was taken from! Dead Sea in the background) What they found inside astonished them.
Go back just briefly and imagine that you are Herod's guards and cooks and the families that support a royal court and castle.  You are on top of a mountain in what you believe is an impregnable fortress.  An army approaches and surrounds your fortress, but you have water enough for years and a relatively sustainable food source within your walls so you still feel safe.  Then they start messing around a good ways off from the wall and you think, "Those silly Romans tricks are for..."  Slowly it dawns on you however, they are building a ramp up here?!  Then the anticipation and the dread begin.  It's not known how long exactly it took the Romans to build the ramp but based on the size it had to take a least a few months.  During that time the people in the fortress had a decision to make.  Kill or be killed.  Unfortunately the killing option did not really apply to them killing the Romans as the Romans had metal armor and they had stone arrowheads and slingshots.  Ultimately, they decided that they would rather die then live in slavery or be butchered by the godless Romans.  Hence, rather then be captured and ultimately murdered or enslaved, those within Masada killed their own family members and then themselves.  So for the Israelites while it is still a harrowing tale, it turned from a story of slaughter to a story of heroism.  Live free or die.
And perhaps now you've discovered the connection.  For Israelis Masada is a place to celebrate the idea of independence.  From time of old this has been their mentality.  However, this is also where some challenges arise when thinking of the modern day issues and the fact that Palestine is not free.  So for some, today is a day to celebrate their independence and for others it marks the day the state imprisoned them.  The conflict doesn't end.
Fortunately for me and my fellow pilgrims, that is not the focus of our journey.
After Masada our bus driver, Iran, took us to Qumran where the Dead Sea scrolls were found.  The Sons of Lights are the authors and scribes of many different scrolls but are important for Christians because they authenticate the Gospels and they reference the time of Jesus.  Getting to see the place that the scrolls were found and to hear about the Sons of Light and how there may be a connection between them and John the Baptist was quite powerful.  Also, they have some pretty delicious hummus and almond ice cream bars there!  Boy did we need some lunch!

After lunch, and waiting 30 minutes of course because we were going swimming!  Though swimming is kind of a misnomer because of the salt content of the Dead Sea you float way higher in the water then normal.  If you will indulge me, I'm going to take a second to describe what the floating in the Dead Sea is like.  Firstly, as you go down to the water it feels like a normal beach.  The sand is a bit course and brown.  Umbrellas and beach chairs accompany the other typical beach trappings.  The water is almost always calm, even in heavy winds because the sea is so narrow.  Jordan is clearly visible on the other side and you can see hotel buildings and whatnot.  You begin to make your way out into the water and you can feel the slippery mud begin to squish beneath your toes.  Then as the water gets to your knees you start to feel how the water almost pushes your calf muscle up and when you lift your foot it almost feels like you've got a water wing on your ankle.  Cupping water in your hands you can almost feel the difference in viscosity.  The sensation is almost like rubbing silk between your palms.  Then you slowly ease into the water - we were warned to not put your face in the water because the burning sensation you'll get in your eyes, or if you've shaved recently, your face, is extremely unpleasant.  Then the school girl giggles begin!  You can't sink.  It's difficult even to keep your legs beneath you because every part of you wants to float.  Imagine the motion you make if you were to try and go underwater and touch the bottom of the pool with your feet.  When you try that in the Dead Sea you might get water in your mouth but you certainly won't get up to your eyeballs and then you bounce right back up like a fishing bobber!  You can lay back and keep your feet and hands out of the water and just sit there!  It is surreal.  To quote Ferris Bueller, "It is so choice.  If you have the means, I highly recommend [going for a swim]."  As you can see it looks like we are standing when our feet are not touching the ground.
After you do the spa move and slather some mud on your face that you just picked up from the bottom of the sea that costs $29 per 8oz at the store back at Qumran, you lay out for just a bit before you get too crackly and then you go for a refreshing freshwater rinse.  Then, in our case, you head to the River Jordan.
To be continued in the morning...

2 JC's!

JC6 and JC7 on top of Maison D'Abraham with the #3 Muslim Holy place, the Dome of the Rock in the background. The Dome is a protective covering (not the golden dome you see but another one within the building) over the rock that is said to be the place where Abraham nearly sacrificed Isaac. Abraham is the father of all 3 religions, which as always, gives me pause. In a city with huge walls imprisoning an entire people, with walls protecting us from one another, even where we are staying there is an electronically controlled fence with a camera to only let in those they recognize, we are all here for the same reason - to feel close or even to touch our God. The questions within quandaries within riddles are almost too much to approach. Yet it seems like such a simple answer. Love your neighbor. It's hard to hug your neighbor when there's a fence with razor wire separating you.
#centerofstrife #placeofpeace #darncatch22's

Beginning at the Beginning

For some time I've looked for a writing outlet as well as a way to share my stories.  To be fair, I'm a bit judgmental towards blogs, possibly because I live in such a hipster city that I associate it with skinny jeans - and I like the flexibility of boot cut.  But there were those that said they might read a blog were I to post one so we'll see how this goes.

I begin by writing from St. George's College in Jerusalem a few minutes from the old city walls of Jerusalem.  I am quite blessed to be here as a gift from my father to visit our Father.  I am accompanied by 10 other men (though we were shooting for 12!).  We are pilgrims.  The focus of my time in the Holy Land is Christ.

Clearly, there are so many religions represented here that to suggest that all I'll see and think about is Jesus would be silly.  I am definitely excited to learn about a place that is the crux of the main world religions.  As my father told me yesterday, the Muslim nation help Jerusalem for about 1300 years leading up to the 19th century, so I feel quite blessed that I get to visit in relative safety.

Yesterday we arrived at 9am into Tel Aviv and got things rolling pretty quickly.  After getting settled at St. George's, which we have pretty much to ourselves, and after a delicious meal of lasagna and hummus, we walked into the old city.  Jerusalem is much like other non-Western cities I've visited.  It's a whirlwind of crazy drivers who love their horns, street stalls, lots of walking traffic and vendors vying for attention.  When we actually went through the Damscus Gate into the city I immediately felt like I was back in Bangkok, only the smells were different and there were less transvestites.  The lanes are chock full of stalls selling all that you could need.  Fresh soy beans and fig leaves lead to shoe stores lead to ice cream and huge mounds of spices shaped like pyramids.  People abound and one thing I find interesting is the bumping.  People here bump into each other quite often and it doesn't seem to bother them - not to say it bothers me, I just think it's another thing that sets us apart as Westerners, "Oh, no, please don't touch me!  You might be stealing my wallet."  I did keep my hands in my pockets for safety, though I don't think that makes me racist, does it?

As I was walking, surrounded by all kinds of people and commerce, I tried to imagine Jesus walking through this lane carrying a cross on His way to Golgatha and His crucifixion.  To think that there was a man named Jesus and He walked these streets in bare feet carrying a cross and wearing a crown of thorns is pretty unreal.  In these cramped yet cool alleys, we saw a group of Chinese Christians carrying a wooden cross and it made me smile as God reminded me that Jesus saved everyone and the Love of Christ is for all.

At the Church of the Resurrection and the Holy Sepulchre I really felt transported to another time.  The stonework was clearly age old and magnificent.  Huge spaces with enormous ceilings and massive pillars come together to form the church over the hill where Jesus was crucified and the tomb in which He was buried and then rose from.  Ornate silver lanterns hang everywhere.  Huge mosaics depict Jesus moving from the cross to the tomb while the angels weep.  Light streams through windows high in the cupola and to create beams that illuminate the interior with a sense of awe.  Naturally the church is teeming with pilgrims and tourists all trying to touch the stone of the hill or take a picture touching the stone.

The dichotomy is interesting.  Am I a tourist or a pilgrim?  What distinguishes me from the other?  Does taking a picture make me a tourist?  Does examining a mural of Christ's crucifixion in silence while trying to listen to the Lord speak to me make me a pilgrim?  I'm sure there are those that could get wrapped up in purpose vs reality.  However, I am content by accepting that I am both and that there is not a need for me to distinguish between the two.  I'll take pictures and I'll pray and I'll be a pilgrim on a tour.

Having faith that this place is actually the place where Jesus rose from the dead I am humbled by the idea that at the very least, what happened here 2000 years ago has changed the course of human history in an enormous way, let alone what His Resurrection means to me on an individual level.  Suffice it to say that there is a power to this place and I am blessed to be here and thankful for the way I came to be here and those that I get to share this experience with, especially my Father - who put this trip together.

It's 7:15am Jerusalem time and 11:15pm Austin time.  Breakfast is in 45 minutes and then we'll begin the first full day in the place that has been a center of conflict for millenia upon millenia, yet I am quite serene.  We'll see how that changes.

Let the adventure continue!